While in Stockholm, Copenhagen and Gothenburg, without my trusty laptop by my side, I developed a techy-technique that I quite like. Whenever there was something interesting (well, interesting to me) that I would normally share with a traveling partner, I would instead jot it down under “memos” in my cellphone. This is a particularly useful technique when your memory is as shite as mine is. It also came in useful during those moments when I felt ill at ease with my solo traveling status. It gave the illusion to others and even to me a little, that I did actually have someone to tell about my experiences, even though, at least at that moment, it was only a memo to me. So, I thought in order to transform these little memos from mere pretenders into real and genuine conduits of information, I would share them with you all now. Get a cup of tea and a biscuit – She be a long one!
September 4th –
“Just arrived in Stockholm – beautiful! All pastels and canals. I am excited to start exploring tomorrow!”

September 5th -A visit to Gamla Stan (Old Town) and the Royal Palace
“I’ve never seen so many cyclists before!”


“A distinctly more attractive group of royals here in Sweden than in Scotland“ – Well if you don’t believe me see for yourself -
Scottish Monarchs/Swedish Monarchs






“Lunch at Cafe Nero in Gamla Stan- budget lunch of $20! For quiche, a salad and latte, but Delicious!”
“Things are expensive in Sweden. Even when they aren’t that expensive they seem expensive – 35 krona for a jar of instant coffee sounds like a lot. It’s not really. Swedish meatballs from the Hemkop deli counter with free hostel pasta for dinner tonight (Courtesy of City Lodge Hostel), and a slice of princess cake to try for dessert.”
September 6th – Museum Marathon with the Stockholm Tourist Card
“Oh, God! Acid Wash is back!”
“A beautiful day! My favourite kind – Windy and Sunny. Visiting museums by boat today. Been to the Vasa Museum so far, and The Nordic Museum. The folk art exhibit at the Nordiska was spectacular and inspiring. Made me wish I had Swedish ancestry. Off to the Museum of Modern Art next, and if I am still able to hold myself upright, the National Museum of Art to finish.”
“I love Carl Larsson and Bruno Liljefors!”
“Remember to ask Stephen – Rembrandt or Reubens.“ (I say Rembrandt!)
“Phew! Museum Marathon day is done! In an effort to make the most of my Stockholm Card I went to five museums today. FIVE! Doing so saved me about $30. I ache all over and yearn for a bath which the hostel doesn’t have. A shower will have to do. While right now I am questioning the sanity of seeing five museums in one day, if I hadn’t of had the card I would have probably only picked one or two and never seen the rest. So I am glad I did it. I liked all but one museum – Skansen – a touristy living history museum kind of place. I just don’t like museums where you are forced to interact with people pretending to be living in a different century. It’s creepy, weird and awkward. Maybe my feelings are a result of built up resentment resulting from my failed attempt during my university days, to get one of the lucrative summer jobs at Upper Canada Village. I mistook an apple corer for a can opener during my interview. I was about a century off with that guess. Either way, I just don’t like living history museums. Tomorrow off to Vauxholm, an island in Sweden’s Archipelago region.“
September 7th – A day in Sodermalm, one of Stockholm’s trendiest neighbourhoods.
“In Sodermalm today instead of Vauxholm, due to the weather. Earlier today I made a visit to the Thielska Art Gallery which showcases a wonderful collection of Nordic artists. It was amazing! I discovered I love Edvard Munch, especially his lithographs, wood cuts and sketches. Until now, I only knew of his painting, “The Scream”, which I never really liked all that much.”
“I love Sodermalm – It feels like Stockholm’s heart centre.”
“Stockholm makes me want to earn a living again. So many things here that I want to buy! Favourite new store – Monki.”
“If it wasn’t for slight smell of must emanating off my handbag, purchased on sale in Edinburgh, I might actually fit in among these Swedish hipsters. I might get at least a pass, but one wiff of me by a Stockholm fashionista and I am betrayed.”
“I discovered an apparently Canadian literary cult classic here in Stockholm. Andrew Kaufman – they sell all his published books here, and I have never heard of him before. I felt obliged to find out what the Swedes knew about this Canadian author that I had missed out on so far, and purchased Kaufman’s book “All my friends are superheroes”. It’s such an interesting experience to peruse the English books available in a foreign land; a small shelf containing a synthesized collection of some real gems and a few surprises like Andrew Kaufman.”
“Always a challenge to pick the right spot for dinner. There is my cheapness, and my shyness at being a solo traveller, at play. I need to strike the right balance between anonymity and sociability. Landed at a place called ‘Mest’ for dinner tonight.”

“Yum, Mariestad beer!”
September 8th – Vauxholm and Sweden’s Archipelago
“Waiting for the boat to Vauxholm. It is cloudy and threatening rain again, but today is my last day in Stockholm. I don’t think it will be my last visit to Sweden though! At 40 pounds for airfare from Edinburgh, why not?? It would be fun to come here in the winter (that’s probably the Canadian in me), plus, I haven’t done an ABBA tour yet.”
“I am beginning to figure out why Sweden is considered a model country. They have a lot figured out about how to live life well. The Archipelago region, were Swede’s retreat for their holidays, is beautiful. It reminds me a lot of the Muskoka region in Canada. Cottages perched on little rocky islands.
“
“My handbag will never recover from its musty smell! Caught out in a deluge in Vauxholm, it is soaked through.”
“A rainbow over Vauxholm just as the boat is pulling away from the dock. Perfect!”
September 9th – Leaving Stockholm and arriving in Copenhagen
“I have arrived too early at the train station, but this has given me the chance to confirm my theory. All swedes are beautiful. They are not, contrary to popular belief, all blonde (although if the primary school I visited yesterday is any indication, they all start out that way). They are all different, but all beautiful; especially the men.”
“On the train to Copenhagen, I am struck once again by how much Sweden looks like Ontario – Tall pines, rocky outcrops, and lots of rivers and lakes….oh, story idea…involving the Russian man sitting across from me and the Danish mother and her adoptive five-year old daughter sitting in front of me, and an abduction. I like train drama stories. Something about being in a confined space, with all kinds of doors and nooks and crannies, that’s streaking through country side and across borders, a world unto its own.”
“Serves me right, moments after my Pulitzer story idea came to me, the woman sitting in front of me asked if I would lower my blind so that her daughter could nap. You can’t really say no, can you; it’s so a little girl can sleep. I hate that. The Swedish countryside is now shut away from me, also, I need to pee and the woman sitting beside me is sound asleep, and blocking my exit. Torture! I can’t see anything and I need to pee and can’t!”
“It’s an hour later. I woke up the woman sitting beside me and went to the washroom. Feeling lighter and freer after my pee, I thought, ‘fuck it’ and also opened my window’s blind. Too bad for you, little girl!”
“Crossing the Baltic Sea (?) into Denmark – a huge windmill farm.”
“How can I not love Copenhagen! I do not not love Copenhagen. That’s definite! I ordered a hot chocolate and was provided with a steaming cup of milk and two stir sticks covered in chocolate, one with milk chocolate and the other with dark chocolate.”
“In Copenhagen, you are immediately struck by what a very, very hip, young town this is. Definitely the most fashion forward city I have been too, including New York. I am glad I packed my little pinstriped blazer, and may wear it tomorrow! Who knows, I may even be inspired to wear a little makeup again for the first time in years!”
“Even more cyclists here!”

“My hostel is massive but brand new (just completed in June, 2011). The Generator Hostel is located in a wonderful part of town just off of Gothergade and near the Rosenborg Park and palace. But, it has no guest kitchen and they won’t let you eat in your room!! What kind of hostel doesn’t have a guest kitchen? Infuriating and it will cost me extra for food now!”
September 10th – Hop on Hop off bus tour and the Statens Museum for Kunst
“Copenhagen seems to be a city of love. Everywhere you turn there are couples who have just stopped where they are, seemingly compelled by some invisible power to embrace lovingly; long sumptuous embraces. Nice. Want one. Too bad for me. I will go eat something instead.”
“I love this time of year. Sunny days, crisp evenings, in golden, fading light. A smell of smoke and curling, shriveling leaves. Not unlike the work by Danish artist Hammershoi, who I discovered today at the Danish National Museum of Art. “
“”In tribute to my polish days (I spent a year there in 1993), I have landed at an Eastern European restaurant for dinner tonight, located around the corner from my hostel. It is called Gold Prag. Delicious smelling and a really lovely server! She is like a blond Danish version of my friend Sharon. If my new crush, Tim Key, were here, and it were winter, I would bring him to dine with me at this restaurant, for a cozy, warming meal. Then we would go for a skate at the nearby square that is famous for its skating rink in the winter, followed by one of those nice, long Copenhagen embraces.”
“Hmm… may go to see one of my favourite films, ‘Lars and the Real Girl’ which is playing tonight at the local film house. Hard to tell how much it will cost though – the guide says it is either 40kr for ‘medlemmer’ or 65 kr for ‘ikke – medlemmer’. I wonder which it will be??”
September 11th – National Museum, Fredricksberg and Christiania
“I am exhausted. I walked around more than I should have but I felt compelled to do so instead of taking the bus; all the way from Fredricksberg to Christiania and back to the hostel. I started out at the National Museum as it was raining. An amazing Prehistoric exhibit filled with interesting information about early Vikings and their customs and rituals. The gardens at Fredricksberg were beautiful. Fredricksberg, the neighbourhood had a nice Sunday slow down feel to it. The sun came out and I had a lovely street side patio lunch with a great sandwich and latte. Christiania was fascinating. An alternative community that I first learned about when I was studying Tent City in Toronto, Christiania is considered a model squatting community within the squatting movement. It was great to see and experience it firsthand. It is very well established and larger than I expected. Which, I imagine is partly what makes it so hard for those politicians who are wishing to eradicate it. I don’t believe it will be going anywhere, anytime soon. I saw a wonderful jazz band playing outside of a bar on one of the main streets of Christiania. There was a great vibe there. Wished I could have stayed longer but was feeling exhausted so returned to the hostel.”




September 12th – Copenhagen Card day – Palaces, Canals and Tivoli
“Started the day with a latte and croissant at a nearby cafe on Gottergade, with a table full of quintessentially Danish men to look at. They were all tall and fit, with a powerfully attractive energy. Nice. I accidentally picked up one of their lattes at the bar and one of them (the cutest one) came rushing over to claim it, in hurried Danish. It could have been a romantic moment. But it wasn’t, and he was gone. So, off to salvage what I can of my last day in Copenhagen!”
“I have been a distinctly more unsuccessful tourist here in Copenhagen – for some reason I find it harder to plan and get around here, compared to Stockholm. I bought the Copenhagen Tourist Card here, but this is proving a waste of money, as many of the museums here are free, or (stupid planning on my part!) closed today, it being a Monday. Today is my last day in Copenhagen and so, I will sadly leave Copenhagen without seeing the Resistance Museum and the National Museum of Design, two museums I really wanted to get to. Ah, well. I can go to palaces today. They seem to be open. But, to be frank, if you have seen one palace you have seen them all. Most of these royals seem to me to be a rather unimaginative lot. They seem more concerned with keeping up with their royal equivalent of the Jones, the gang at Versailles. So, most palaces just seem to me like opulent grabs at status. Pretty with little substance, like prize show dogs, they say little else about the real personalities that built these homes.”
“Okay that was pretty special. I just visited Rosenborg Castle, used as a royal residence until 1710, but showcasing royal belongings dating from the 16th to the 19th century. I think it is my favorite castle so far – Spectacular, unique and livable. Grumpiness about castles and palaces is subsiding.”
“I am having a weirdly proud Canadian moment - I am standing in Kongens Nytorv (new square) eating a fabulous Copenhagen hot dog (and they really are fabulous – topped with deep-fried onion bits, sweet pickles, a mild curry sauce and mustards -truly delicious!), and listening to Canadian Leonard Cohen’s hallelujah being played by Peruvian flutists…and now Celine Dion’s Titanic theme song!….So Proud!”

“The cruise along the Copenhagen canals is a highlight, what a nice way to spend an afternoon. Almost makes the Copenhagen Card worth it…almost.”
“Danish design is so exciting and inspiring!”



“The Danes are style gods. Yes, they are. I think quite possibly, everything they touch ends up being beautiful. Even what should have been the tackiest place in town – The Tivoli Gardens, the city’s old amusement park, is perfection; a perfect balance between aesthetic and amusement. It is full of beautiful design features everywhere you look. I LOVED it! And while I knew I would like it, as I have always had a particular affection for old amusement
parks, I was surprised how much I loved it.”



September 13th – Leaving Copenhagen for Gothenberg – The final stretch (meaning – hang in there, we are almost done!)
“Well, I am off to Gothenberg today. I am having a latte and what would be I guess, the original danish. I felt like a fool when I ordered it and said, ‘I’ll try the danish there.’ I don’t know what it is called in Denmark, but I am pretty sure it isn’t called a danish. Sipping my coffee and watching people go by, I am struck again by how great the footwear is in this country. If I had more money, this is definitely where I would buy a new pair of boots. Also, many of the Danes are wearing my favourite sneaker – the retro New Balance. This makes me feel trendy and hip even though I don’t actually own a pair of these shoes myself.”
“The trains in Denmark and Sweden are amazingly efficient, fast and comfortable. My train this morning departed at 9:33am. It arrived in the station at 9:31am, we boarded and were off, on time. “
“So many windmills in Denmark and Sweden. Also, despite what a lot of right wingers would say about the welfare state being a failure, I have seen only one person panhandling here in the 10 days I have been here. This was in Copenhagen. I wouldn’t be able to count the number of panhandlers that I would see over of the course of 10 days in Toronto. Given Sweden and Denmark have some of the most comprehensive and progressive social policies in the world, it seems to be working here. Maybe, go figure, you do really get more when you spend more. Why wouldn’t the principle be the same whether you are buying a nice business suit or a social service?”
“I like Sweden. They have great words for things, like, ‘hiss’ for elevator and ‘kuckling’ for chicken. You don’t need to speak Swedish to understand these words!”
” Another stellar hostel – The Slottsskogen Hostel. This hostel has a cafe and a very convivial kitchen lounge area where you can cook your own food (Thank goodness! Back to normal!). I have my own room tonight.”
“I had my only language mishap of the trip today. The Scandinavian countries are basically bilingual, with the Danes (and this is just my perception) being the only ones to show even a whisper of resentment about it. So my mishap – I was checking into my hostel and I asked the young guy at reception if there was a washroom I could use (my room wasn’t ready yet). He said, yes, but it would cost me 40kr! ‘But I am a guest here’, I blurted out, shocked at this blatant monetary grab. ‘Yes, well of course, but everyone has to pay for this’, he said, looking at me like I was the crazy one. ‘Do you still want to use the washroom?’ he asked. ‘Well, yes! When you got to, you got to, right?’ I said, feeling very confused and flustered. Then he advised me that I should use the dryer down the hall as it is hotter and asked me if I needed soap. DING, DING, DING!! Comprehension came to me, and I explained that by ‘washroom’ I meant ‘toilet’. ‘Ah, really?’ he asked with a smile. He thought I wanted to launder my clothes. I had forgotten that no one, not even the Scots, seem familiar with the term ‘washroom’ and instead use the term ‘toilet’. We had a good laugh about it and then I went and had a pee.“
“They seem to like their pillows square in Scandinavia.”
“Cute Swedish man! He’s sweet-dish! – Ha! I just made that up! He runs a lovely little shop in the old part of town. He was charming and friendly, and so I left his shop just as soon as I could. Duh! This is why I am still single! Many years ago, my friend Kristin (of Swedish decent I might add, though it is completely irrelevant) once suggested that I take this class she had read about. It was called “How to have a Conversation Properly”, or something like that. I was taken aback. ‘I can carry on a conversation, just fine’, I thought to myself. Though I knew even then on some level, that she was probably right, still, I didn’t sign up. Probably I should have. I am after all writing memos to myself right now.”
“I should add, as you have probably already figured out for yourselves, that I tend to develop crushes exclusively on waiters or men in shops and cafes. This is because these are really the only men I encounter, and certainly the only men who are lovely and chatty with me. They feign interest in what I have to say because it is a requirement of their job, and I fall for it every time. And then, just like that I have a crush on a guy I know nothing about. Often I don’t even know his first name. “
“It is 2am and I am lying here in my single bed in my hot shoebox of a room, with no windows, and not for the first time this year, I am wondering, ‘what am I doing here?’ This isn’t how I pictured my life at…my age; in a tiny, windowless shoebox, by myself. I know I am blessed with many wonderful friends and a loving, fun family, but where’s my own family? Why am I roaming around Europe by myself at…my age? “
September 14th – Last day of Trip!
” Ha! Tram #9 is destined for ‘Angered’!” (So apparently does the #9 and the #8)

“I went back to the cute man’s store again, ostensibly to buy a piece of pottery I saw yesterday, but he didn’t recognize me. It was only yesterday that we had our lovely chat! So, I didn’t buy anything.”
“Went to the Gothenberg fish market. Well worth the visit! Beautiful looking fish and seafood and it smelled wonderful, helped along by a couple of nice looking restaurants. Bought my first shrimp sandwich – a Swedish classic! Can’t wait to try it!”
“Picked up a Moomin book for my niece. Hope she likes it!”
“Other Swedish words I like: ‘fika’: the term used for afternoon cake and coffee; and ‘hygge’: the Swedish term for a cozy and convivial atmosphere. ‘Liten’ meaning small and ‘stor’ meaning big are pretty great words too.”
“Wow! I think it really is true that the Swedes are a happier lot than the rest of us. On the flight home to Edinburgh, the cheery Swedish chatter was overwhelming and distracting. I have never heard such a jovial bunch of travellers!”
“Still, upon arriving at Waverley station in Edinburgh (took the airport shuttle to the train station), I think Edinburgh is the more beautiful city, with its dramatic and majestic castle on the hill.”
Tags: Copenhagen, solo travel, Stockholm
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